Sunday, 27 July 2014

In Search of a Shoebill

The Shoebill looks almost prehistoric with it's large clog-shaped bill. It is a very large bird standing around 4 to 5 feet tall. The bill is around 20cm long and almost as wide, the largest among all living bird species.  It is classified as threatened and is only found in the East Africa, mainly in Sudan and Tanzania, although the easiest places to see them in the wild are in Uganda.

It's hunting method is to stand stationary for long periods, sometimes several hours, waiting for it's prey come within catching distance. Then it suddenly lunges down to catch the prey in it's large bill.

As one of the best places to see the Shoebill in the wild is the Mabamba swamp near Entebbe we decided to spend today in search of a Shoebill. It is remarkable how quickly you get away from the busy Kampala - Entebbe corridor and escape onto murram roads and beautiful countryside.


There is a lack of signposts or detailed maps so we got lost a couple of times but eventually found our way to Mabamba and found a boat and a guide to take us out into the swamp.


As we came around a corner there it was





Of course the Shoebill isn't the only bird in the swamp and as we moved around in the boat we saw lots of other birds and also beautiful waterlilies.



African Jacana


A lovely way to spend a Sunday. 

Saturday, 19 July 2014

Exploring Karamoja!

On Tuesday I attended a Land Platform meeting in Kotido, which is in the heart of the Karamoja region in the North East of Uganda, bordering onto Kenya. It is a hot, dry, remote area known as one of the poorest in Uganda. It is a 500km drive from Kampala, which took a full day. We went via Lira so 300km on tarmac roads and 200km on murram.


We went through spectacular mountain scenery in Abim county.


Then onto the flat lands around Kotido.


You can just see the man in traditional dress carrying a long stick in the corner of the picture. Traditionally the Karamojong carry long spears and wear a feather in their headress. I saw several of these traditional headdresses and one person with a spear.

The Karamojong are known throughout Uganda for their love of cattle. They are pastoralists who travel around in search of grazing. We travelled in the rainy season, and if fact arrived during a heavy storm, so the area around Kotido was quite green. But there are long dry periods, especially when the rains arrive late, when both food and grazing are scarce. The region experienced a famine earlier this year and there were reports in the Ugandan papers of agencies distributing food and numbers dying from hunger.

As well as the problems caused by the seasons and rainfall, or lack of it, the Karamoja region is rich in minerals including gold, marble, limestone and iron ore. This should be a cause for celebration with the population being lifted out of poverty from the proceeds of the mineral wealth under their feet. However, it's not that simple. The land is mostly communal land with a tribal group using their land for their homes and grazing. Shared resources such as streams and water holes are used communally between tribal groups by negotiation and agreement.

Exploration licences to determine the quantity and quality of the minerals have been granted to large scale mining groups with little consultation with the local population who are often unaware of what is happening. Levels of literacy are low so posting a notice, especially in English, is unlikely to elicit a response. If an economic level of mineral wealth is found who gets the licence to mine it? Probably not the local people who may have been mining the area on a small scale for years to provide some income for their families.

By law 3% of the royalties from mineral extraction is passed to the land owner. Firstly 3% is a depressingly low figure. Secondly with no obvious land owner and no written title to the land to prove ownership very often the people who rely on the land for their livelihood are left out of the distribution.

Overall an eye opening conference. We had speakers giving the background to the area and the issues, including those described above, a speaker describing the situation across the border in the Turkana Region of Kenya and a representative from a mining consortium working hand in hand with an international NGO to try and give a fairer share to the local people.

The local people must have wondered whatever was happening! 90 people descending on a small town smaller than Poppleton, taking over every hotel room in the place and driving around in their big 4*4 NGO branded vehicles. At least we must have brought some money into the town for food, drink and accommodation. And we gave the local representatives and NGO workers a chance to participate in a conference they would normally have to travel to Lira or Kampala to attend, so hopefully we did some good.


Sunday, 13 July 2014

Happy Anniversary!

Today is exactly one year since my first blog post. Then I had just handed in my notice at work and we were starting to let friends and family know that we would be travelling to live and work in Uganda for 2 years.

The blog has covered the year and my impressions. There are 45 posts, not quite the 1 per week I aimed for but not far off. There have been nearly 2000 page views from all over the world. Not surprisingly over 50% from the UK but also lots of views from USA and more recently Uganda. The most popular post was about 'Contrasts' posted on 3rd June followed by the Christmas Eve visit to the Equator and a Day out in Entebbe on 28th October. The least popular post is about the Land Platform meeting in Lira on 5th March with just 2 page views!!

A lot has happened in the last year. Looking back it was a very exciting and extremely busy time. I was working my notice and handing over work, doing VSO training, fundraising, shopping and packing, preparing the house for rental and travelling around the UK to visit people before we flew out. I lived and worked in York and was surrounded by the beautiful old buildings for which York is famous.





Kampala is very different, much more chaotic and noisy but colourful and vibrant


We've had some amazing experiences and the opportunity to travel around the country and see animals in the parks and beautiful scenery.





We have a lovely apartment on the outskirts of Kampala and a group of VSO volunteers who have become very close friends. We both now have volunteering roles keeping us busy but they are enjoyable and worthwhile.

I've had a few wobbles where I would have happily climbed on a plane home, but overall I'm glad I was given the opportunity and had the courage to take it. Thank you VSO for a memorable year and I look forward to the rest of the placement.

Saturday, 5 July 2014

A Little Bit of Luxury

I've been on my first visit outside Uganda this week with a Regional Finance team meeting in Nairobi. With the security situation in Nairobi it was touch and go whether or not we would actually have the meeting but luckily it went ahead and we had a very good week.

The Uganda team of three flew to Kenya early in the morning on Sunday and I had a wonderful view of the snow capped summit of Kilimanjaro peeping out from the clouds. I checked on google maps and Kilimanjaro is 330 kilometres from Nairobi, a future trip perhaps? Then as we circled the airport to land I could see trains and motorways!

I've really enjoyed my travels in Uganda and have always found that as long as I have a working shower (preferably hot!) and a comfortable bed that is all that I need. However, the place we stayed in Nairobi felt very luxurious. Everywhere was beautifully finished with lovely garden areas around the buildings. There was a lift within the hotel and tea and coffee making facilities in the room.



However, there were no opportunities to explore Nairobi. We were told to stay in the compound because of the security situation. So apart from the taxi rides to and from the airport I saw nothing of Nairobi.

The meeting was very enjoyable. It was good to meet colleagues from South Sudan, Ethiopia, Kenya and Somalia and to share experiences and good practice in the different countries. Compared with some of the areas we can at least visit our partner organisations as the distances are not too great, the roads passable and the security situation stable. It was a very different story for some colleagues.

We returned to Uganda on Thursday reinvigorated and keen to continue our work supporting our partner organisations.