It's so sad to say 'Goodbye'!

We knew it would happen but it is very sad to be saying goodbye to so many of the friends we have made over the past 9 months! VSO volunteers tend to be mobile, are on different length contracts and start at different times so arrivals and departures is part of the experience. But we live and work so closely together it is a wrench when someone leaves. Also leaving tends to involve travelling to the other side of the world so there is no popping in for a cup of coffee and a chat!

In June and July there are so many leavers including many close friends, returning to Indonesia, Holland, the UK and India via Barcelona. So life is currently a string of goodbye parties and meals out and will be followed by a gaping hole in August when there will only be a few of us left in Kampala. Time to recruit some more volunteers for Uganda VSO.

Thank you all for your friendship and support and we are going to miss you. Safe travels wherever life takes you and we hope to meet up again sometime. I think we might do some globe-trotting when we get back to York at the end of 2015!

Travels in the South West

This blog has been sadly neglected for the past 3 weeks. Our two sons have been with us for a fortnight and we have been travelling. We had some time in Kampala and a week away to Fort Portal, Queen Elizabeth National Park and Lake Bunyoni in the South West of Uganda.

Fort Portal

Fort Portal town

Fort Portal is a little under 200 miles from Kampala, more or less due west. It is quite a lot higher than Kampala as it is the gateway to the Rwenzori mountain range so cooler especially at night. It was nice to sleep under a blanket again, but a bit cold getting out of bed in the morning!

Heading into the Rwenzori Mountains

We stayed at a lovely guest house with fabulous meals. An advantage of being part of a group of VSO volunteers is that we all share information about the best places to eat and stay around Uganda. This suits us as Smith family travels tend to revolve around the next place for a cup of coffee or something to eat!

Queen Elizabeth National Park
After 2 nights in Fort Portal we headed south to Queen Elizabeth National Park. At 6am on Friday 13th June we were heading into the park in a safari vehicle in the hope of spotting a leopard. However, it was Friday 13th so no lions or leopards were around. We did see some animals but disappointingly few for such an early start. After a late breakfast we went to the Mweya peninsula and joined a launch trip. This was more successful for game viewing with hippos, buffalo, elephants, a crocodile, a monitor lizard and numerous birds on view.

Lake Bunyoni
After two busy days in the Park what better than a relaxing weekend on an island in the middle one of the most beautiful and peaceful lakes anywhere, Lake Bunyoni in the far south west. We arrived tired on the Saturday evening, leaving the car on the mainland and climbing into to a motorboat for our 15 minute journey to the island.

Our cottage for the weekend looked like it was straight out of a fairy tale.

And the view from the restaurant was fantastic

The sunsets were amazing, but beyond the capability of my little point and shoot camera to do them justice, or beyond my photographic skills! On Sunday we had a walk, hired dug out canoes to explore the island from the water, had a family card games tournament, read and chatted.

Back to Kampala
Monday morning and we were on the road again. After a walk around the town and a coffee in Kabale we went onto Mbarara for an overnight stop.

Leaving Lake Bunyoni

We had one more treat on a drive towards Lake Mburo and a close encounter with a zebra.

Back in Kampala we completed our shopping for gifts to send home and our exploration of the various food choices available before the boys caught their flight home early on Saturday.

Contrasts!

In the UK we are used to an easy lifestyle with a nice house, a reliable supply of electricity, gas and water and lots of labour saving devices. Here we miss the dishwasher, washing machine, freezer, microwave, coffee maker, television, our comfortable armchairs etc. We really miss the oven as we only have two calor gas rings here so that limits our cooking abilities. Most of these things are available in Kampala but at a price, which is usually higher than they would be in the UK. For a two year period on a volunteers allowance it is just not worthwhile.

But we are so lucky, we have been able to get a fridge, the furniture we need and most importantly a car! We have a volunteers allowance, which feels very small compared with a UK income, but is actually a good wage for Uganda, especially when you add on the rent for the apartment. We have savings available we can use for the extras, like the car and holidays and those expensive treats that are available in Kampala when you feel the need for them.

We sign when the electricity suddenly disappears, usually just when you need something to charge up, or when we get home to no water, but here in Kampala the supply is reliable when you compare it to more rural areas. One of the volunteers is based in an area where the electricity is only on for 7 hours out of every 24. His fridge is simply a sealed cupboard to keep out the cockroaches!

Compared with the lot of most Ugandan citizens we are very comfortable indeed. In the villages I visited I saw their way of life. Their huts look reasonably comfortable and cool in the heat of the day but there are none of the things we take for granted. Approximately 80% have access to a radio, either their own or a neighbours and generally listen to the local radio stations. Televisions are only available in bars in the nearest town, assuming there is power! Football is really popular, particularly the UK premier league and the champions league. In the winter the matches are screened between 11pm and 1am or even later but there is still a large following.

Most cooking is done using charcoal or wood burners. Our projects are teaching the construction of energy efficient stoves, made of mud at coffee table height with a fire in one side and two bowl shaped areas at the top to put the pans onto.

Water has to be fetched, if you're lucky from a borehole in the village, if you're not so lucky from the nearest river or stream, which can be several kilometres away. Whenever we are travelling we see so many people, generally children, walking along the road carrying large yellow jerrycans with water, either on bikes or on their heads. We've been quite shocked to find two villages who have been provided with boreholes but these have now broken and they are back to trekking miles to get water from a stream. This water is not clean so the incidence of illness rises in the village when this happens.

Work hours are 12 hours a day, 7 days a week, whenever there is daylight. Today is a bank holiday but there are still lots of builders working on the new flats behind us and the road construction in front. Live in guards and maids can be on duty for 24/7, 365 days a year. The same is true in the villages where the ground needs digging (by hand using a long handled tool a bit like a large hoe), crops need weeding, animals need to be attended to, bee hives need looking after, fruits need harvesting etc. etc. Then there are children, often 6, 8 or more in a family, the sick and the elderly to look after, washing and cooking to do. There's no opening a tin of soup or putting some cheese on toast under the grill!

But everyone is so cheerful and friendly. They support each other and often farm collectively so they share the chores. They don't understand the concept of being alone, if you're on your own they will come and sit in the house so that you are not lonely. The welcome they have given to refugees coming over the border from South Sudan puts Europe and the US to shame.

Suddenly life seems very rosy. Even if we do get 'Muzungu, muzungu, hello' shouted after us wherever we go. Usually followed by 'Give me money!'. At least in Uganda with a simple 'no' or 'not today' you will be left alone, not true in other African countries I hear. Today I will really enjoy our trip out in the car and the coffee and cake we've promised ourselves as a treat and give thanks that I was born a UK citizen.

Meeting under the Mango Tree

Every village has a meeting tree - usually a Mango tree.

I've spent a lot of this week sat under the meeting tree as I've been 'in the field' visiting the various partners, projects and beneficiaries of the sustainable livelihood funding. We've been right into the heart of rural northern Uganda working in Pader and Apac districts. It's been a fascinating week and I've learnt so much.

As the car pulls up you find the village group waiting for you. The women start calling, singing, dancing and waving small branches. They are all dressed in their best clothes and it's a beautiful colourful sight. You make a quick check with the local staff of the correct way to say 'hello, how are you?' in the various local languages. Then climb down from the car and join in the dancing, mixing in with the group, shaking hands and greeting everyone. It feels very awkward when they treat you like a celebrity bowing down or even going onto their knees to greet you. There are usually 30 to 40 people so this ritual takes some time.

Then we all move to the meeting tree where chairs and mats have been set out. As guests we are usually given the best seats, some really comfortable bamboo armchairs. Then the men settle onto benches or stools and the women sit with the babies and toddlers on rush mats. There are more greetings and the welcoming speeches and an opening prayer. Then everyone introduces themselves with the local staff from our partner organisation translating between English and the local language so everyone can understand.

The formal introductions are followed by a question and answer session where we ask about what they have been doing and how the interventions from the partner organisation have helped the group members, both individually and as a group. Then there is an opportunity for the group members to ask any questions, but sadly this was always a list of further inputs politely requested. This left us in the awkward position of having to explain that the purpose of the project is a 'hand up not a hand out' and they should save some of the extra income earned from increased harvests and sales to buy the extra things the groups needs to improve the harvests still more.

Then we all went on a tour of the village area looking at the crops planted with seeds provided, maize, tomatoes, cabbages, aubergines, cassava and beans. We've also seen simple irrigation systems ranging from a treadle pump to a diesel operated pump, which produced an impressive volume of water. Then oxen and ox ploughs, a village granary, tree seedlings near the water sheltered under the trees, coffee bushes and bee hives.

Then back to the meeting tree for thank you's and a closing prayer before more calling and singing as we drive away to the next group.

All of these groups are being helped within the village area to provide sustainable crops for food for their families with a surplus to take to market to give some income. Over the week we've also visited a storage facility being run by a local marketing association formed by up to 20+ groups of 30 members each who gather together their surplus, store it in cool dry conditions until the market price rises and then sell in bulk to buyers getting a better price than any one person or group could achieve on their own. A small percentage of their income is ploughed back into the storage facility to maintain and improve it.

We also had a day with one of the partner organisations working in the area of land rights. We had the privilege to attend a mediation session led by one of their staff between an uncle and niece both claiming the same piece of land. The meeting took place under the village meeting tree and involved the whole community including the clan leaders and various relatives who all had a piece of the history to contribute. Two hours later, with compromise on both sides, an agreement was reached to split the land in half. The whole meeting went onto the disputed land there and then and a half share was measured simply using a long stick turned over and over. Cuttings from an accepted variety of quick growing boundary tree appeared and were planted along the agreed boundary line before we all went back to the meeting tree for mutual thanks and appreciation of the parties and a closing prayer.

All in all a lovely week where I really got to see the difference the work being done is making to the lives of some of the poorest people. Most of the interventions focus on the most vulnerable groups in the area, female headed households, people living with HIV or AIDS and households most affected by the recent conflict.

We're All Going on a Bee Hunt!

Glen and I have spent the past week in the West Nile region of Uganda. This is a remote area in the North West cut off from the rest of the country by the Nile as there is only the one bridge in the south of the area at Pacwach. It is bordered on the north by South Sudan and on the west and south by the Democratic Republic of Congo.

We stayed at an Agriculture College where Glen is doing some pictures for their training manuals and I've been looking at their books and records as the college is one of our partner organisations.

The last time I visited the college was in February, which was towards the end of the dry season, they had no rain between 11th December and 5th March! Very little was growing, the grass was brown and crunched as you walked on it and it was very hot, 40 degrees centigrade in the shade. What a difference 2 months makes! Everything was green, the grass was as tall as me in places where it hadn't been cut, the crops were growing (along with the weeds) and it was much cooler. We even needed a blanket a night!

It was a large team which travelled to the college this time, including the Country Director and Programme Officer. So Tuesday afternoon saw a group of 7 heading out into the community to meet some of the beneficiaries of the programmes, particularly the bee keeping programmes. It was like being back in college days with two 'little ones' squeezed into the front of the pick up truck along with the driver, three on the back seat and one of the college staff bumping along in the open back. The 'main' road to the college is only a dirt track so as soon as we turned off into the villages we were driving along a footpath through the long grass.

Our first visit was to a women's bee keeping group who had been given bee hives by various funders and provided with training in bee keeping by the college. They only spoke their local language so we spoke to them through an interpreter. They told us about the freedom they felt to be able to look after the hives, harvest the honey and produce their own contribution to the household income. One of them said that the training had 'taken away the fear' that they didn't know what to do.

A typical bee hive

Then we headed off to meet a retired civil servant who was farming and keeping bees on his land to provide an income to supplement his pension. But getting there was quite an adventure! It reminded me of the children's action poem - we're going on a bear hunt!

First we bumped along in the truck through the pot holes -- bump bump
Then we jumped out -- jump jump
Then we went through the long grass - swish swish
Through the muddy puddles --  bloop bloop
Waded across the river -- splash splash
(after doing a quick personal risk assessment of course - fast flowing so unlikely to be bilharzia, shallow enough, just below knee height, keep sandals on to avoid picking up anything or cutting my feet on the river bed, help available to get in and out etc.)
Slithered up the steep bank -- slip slip
Through the wood -- crack crack
And finally arrived at the bee hives -- buzz buzz

Of course a couple of the bees took a liking to me and buzzed happily around my head while we chatted to the farmer. If you keep still and don't flick at them they are less likely to sting you but it is easier said than done when all you can hear is buzzing! I suppose it's a compliment, I must have looked and smelt like a flower, despite the mile long trek in the African sun :) Anyway, I was quite glad to walk away, although they followed me for some way before heading home, much to the amusement of the rest of the group. But I must have done something right as I didn't get stung.

Then back to the college for supper, but not at a run!
crack crack, slip slip, splash splash, bloop bloop, swish swish, clamber clamber (back into the truck) and bump bump bump!

On Wednesday evening we went for a walk around the college grounds. This has become a traditional feature of our visits to the college and it's really interesting to see all the different crops and the changes at different times of the year. In May the mango crop is ready and the trees are heavy with beautiful ripe, juicy mangos. The local mangos are much smaller, stringier and juicier than the large mangos we are used to. The college has some grafted mango plants with the larger mango plant grafted onto the local mango root stock. These are a bit of an experiment and also supply the college kitchens. But on our tour around the college we found a local mango tree surrounded with windfall mangos, which we piled into Glen's hat, kept in the college fridge overnight and brought back to Kampala. We've also got a lovely jar of the college honey.  

Kampala

Kampala is the capital of Uganda and in many ways it's like capital cities everyone and yet its also very much an African capital city. We like to go into the centre of Kampala sometimes at the weekend to have a wander around and often meet up with other volunteers for a coffee and cake.

The centre of Kampala is divided into two halves, the uptown parliament area with wide quiet streets, lots of trees and upmarket restaurants and hotels.

The golf course behind Garden City in the quiet leafy uptown area of Kampala.

Then there is the crazy downtown area with the taxi parks, lots of traffic, markets and street stalls.

Downtown Kampala on a Saturday afternoon

The old taxi park in the centre of the downtown area of Kampala. This is where lots of the matatus  (minibus taxis) leave for different parts of the city.

The two are linked with Kampala / Jinja road which cuts across the town centre. This is an extremely busy thoroughfare and causes lots of traffic jams in Kampala as it has to be crossed at some point every time you go from one side of the city to the other.

Kampala road in the city centre

There are still traces of some old colonial buildings around the city centre.

We found the old railway station now abandoned as no passenger trains have run in Uganda for many years. This is a lovely Art Deco building. We peeped into the booking hall and it looked like it was just closed up for the weekend.

Finally we walk back into the chaos to catch the matatu back to the flat.

Fun and Fundraising!

Over the past three weeks I've been very busy working as part of a team putting together a funding bid to DFID to develop the work being done by our partner organisations in northern Uganda. DFID is the UK international development agency so I was aware that I was applying for the money myself, friends and colleagues have been paying in taxes over the past few years.

The level of detail required on the budget expenditure for this bid was much greater than has been needed for UK funding bids I've worked on previously. A spreadsheet with 16 columns and a requirement for a detailed note for every line. The whole process was made much more complicated (but more worthwhile) by the fact that we work with partners so there were 12 individual budgets to prepare, one for each partner, and then consolidate onto the one form for DFID.

The partners are currently working with subsistence farmers in northern Uganda to help them to develop their farms and to use more sustainable and effective agricultural practices to produce more and better quality food for their families and communities. There is also a big element of work on land rights, agreeing land ownership, registering land rights and marking out the agreed boundaries. This has both a local element providing mediation and support to agree and demarcate land for families and a national element working with the government on land policies and registration systems.

The DFID bid is to develop this work, continuing to work with subsistence farmers but with a big element of increasing the variety of crops they grow and starting to process products for market. There are elements of developing bee keeping and honey production and training on farming as a business. The overall impact will be measured by the number of families who have more income, using 1,000,000 Ugandan Shillings per annum as the milestone, equal to approximately £250!

The whole process started with a 3 day residential workshop here in Kampala involving the bid team and all of the partners. We spent 2 days considering the beneficiaries they would work with and the activities they would do to meet the outcomes, then a final day as a budget workshop to develop their budgets to carry out the agreed activities. Then it was 18 days of hard work, including weekends, to complete and consolidate all of the information into a coherent bid for the funding.

The fun in the blog title is the social network we have out here, predominately the other international volunteers. We've had lots of evenings out, generally revolving around a meal, and I'm very thankful to all of the volunteers who've listened patiently and sympathetically to my tales of huge spreadsheets and partner budgets with circular formulae! We also had Easter and our trip away to the Murchison Falls National Park during the bid preparation period (see the previous blog post!). This looked in jeopardy at one point but the bid team insisted that I should go and they would keep the process moving. Finally the Country Director took the whole of the bid team out for dinner as a thank you for our hard work. This was much appreciated and we all had a really good evening.