Sunday, 8 December 2013

Getting Around

Well we've done it - we've finally given in and got ourselves a car! It's a little Toyota RAV 4 - RAV stands for Recreational All-terrain Vehicle, which seems to describe it rather well. It certainly seems to bump over the many speed humps and potholes rather well. Glen is busy sorting out light bulbs that don't light, washers that don't wash, air conditioning that only blows out hot air and strange noises.

Other volunteers who've got a car say it's really changed their experience as suddenly they can go and explore. We're certainly looking forward to getting out of Kampala and discovering more of this beautiful country.

Yesterday we went over to one of the shopping areas on the other side of town and went to a big home store and supermarket. It was great to be able to buy what we needed at a reasonable price without having to worry about how we were going to carry our purchases home.

For the past 2 months I've been getting around without a car or bike. This basically leaves 4 means of transport:

1) Walking. The advantages are that it is free and improves fitness. The disadvantages are the heat, especially in the middle of the day and the number of hills. This means that you inevitably arrive at your destination hot and bothered even where the distance is perfectly manageable in the UK.

2) Matatu. These are the 14 seater minibus taxis that go on set routes all over the city. The advantages are that they are cheap (about 30p to get into the centre of town) and reasonably comfortable and fast. You need local knowledge to use them as there are no route maps, timetables or numbers. Sometimes you get a seat on one straight away, other times you can wait half an hour or more for one to arrive with a spare seat, especially if you are travelling in a group.

3) Boda Boda. The motorbike taxis that are everywhere in the city. They are more expensive than a Matatu, at least 2 to 3 times the price or more depending on your bargaining skills. They are quick as they can weave between the cars and Matatus but can feel very insecure depending on the rider. They are also notorious for accidents. Also if you are using Bodas you have to carry your motorcycle helmet with you for the whole day, into restaurants, supermarkets, meetings etc. However, there is nothing quite like zipping through the town in the warm sunshine on the back of a Boda!

4) Special Hire. Basically what we would call a 'Taxi' with a price to match. Not unreasonable considering the cost of cars, parts and fuel here but outside the means of most volunteers. Anything from £7.50 to £10 depending on the distance travelled and your bargaining skills. Useful if you need to bring home big items (I got my fridge into a special hire!) or for several of you returning home late.

Finally I've copied Glen's description of a journey into the centre of Kampala in a taxi (Matatu)  as it is a brilliant, graphic description.

'You choose to take a taxi so walk along Tank Hill Road, there are stops but who knows where they are. Behind there you there is the Phut Phut of a knackered diesel engine and a persistent toot toot, A rusty white Toyota van with windows and a blue and white checked stripe comes up behind you zigzagging wildly from side to side on the road at about 15 mile per hour with the conductor hanging with an imploring arm out of the side window trying to catch the eye of every pedestrian, shop keeper or stray dog, (they don’t like travelling if they are not full). A slight raise of an arm and the thing veers in your direction right across the path of other traffic and the question is “Nakasero?” (The central Kampala square taken over as a bus park).  A slight nod, with the thought I should ask how much this is, and you are offered an open door to wall of bodies, thank heaven for going caving with Alan Crossley, you twist and gyrate your way through and over the people, bags, chickens and other food stuffs to find a perch on the once lushly upholstered red and gold patterned upholstery.  With a cough and a splutter and a disappointing, thurrrr, tut tut the vehicle staggers into movement as the bus conductor hops along beside trying to become paper thin so as to hold his place next to the window between wall to wall seats and the door so as to wave his arm imploringly at any other potential customer. The vehicle bumps, grinds and clangs its way in a cloud of black smoke, regardless of whichever side of the road it should be on, trying to steer a path between the pot holes and least raised pieces of speed bump. All while it is surrounded by a swarm of Bodas like flies, none seems to be able to actually overtake, undertake or keep apart yet none give up the struggle. Soon you catch up with another taxi as it pulls out from the side of the road and friendly rivalry develops because each wants to be in front to catch the next passenger.  This performance staggers to the end of Tank Hill road and launches from a junction where it has neither priority or care onto Kabalagala a street of shops and thatched stick built night clubs, (think Tortuga form Pirates of the Caribbean) before wedging itself sideways into the traffic jam which is Ggaba road.  From here on down it is push and shove with no intention to leave handlebar room for the Boda Bodas in between all the way to the Roundabout (and I use the term lightly) to cross the Entebbe Road. Here revving of engines and small jumps forward to assert the right to the next foot of road ahead with much gesticulating and paper thin gap judgement between drivers on all sides is the order of the day, until finally you emerge on the Nakasero side and race, halt, race, halt to the turning to the old taxi park. This is a turn right up what looks like a driveway, which you are trying to make from the left hand lane in order to steal a march on all those who got to the right and got stuck in the queue. Somewhere here without regard for anyone else the conductor opens the door and you pile out paying your 1,200 shillings (about 30p) and the taxi disappears into what appears to be a shop front but is actually the entrance to the Old Taxi Park. The theme parks of the UK have missed this ride.'

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