Getting Around

Well we've done it - we've finally given in and got ourselves a car! It's a little Toyota RAV 4 - RAV stands for Recreational All-terrain Vehicle, which seems to describe it rather well. It certainly seems to bump over the many speed humps and potholes rather well. Glen is busy sorting out light bulbs that don't light, washers that don't wash, air conditioning that only blows out hot air and strange noises.

Other volunteers who've got a car say it's really changed their experience as suddenly they can go and explore. We're certainly looking forward to getting out of Kampala and discovering more of this beautiful country.

Yesterday we went over to one of the shopping areas on the other side of town and went to a big home store and supermarket. It was great to be able to buy what we needed at a reasonable price without having to worry about how we were going to carry our purchases home.

For the past 2 months I've been getting around without a car or bike. This basically leaves 4 means of transport:

1) Walking. The advantages are that it is free and improves fitness. The disadvantages are the heat, especially in the middle of the day and the number of hills. This means that you inevitably arrive at your destination hot and bothered even where the distance is perfectly manageable in the UK.

2) Matatu. These are the 14 seater minibus taxis that go on set routes all over the city. The advantages are that they are cheap (about 30p to get into the centre of town) and reasonably comfortable and fast. You need local knowledge to use them as there are no route maps, timetables or numbers. Sometimes you get a seat on one straight away, other times you can wait half an hour or more for one to arrive with a spare seat, especially if you are travelling in a group.

3) Boda Boda. The motorbike taxis that are everywhere in the city. They are more expensive than a Matatu, at least 2 to 3 times the price or more depending on your bargaining skills. They are quick as they can weave between the cars and Matatus but can feel very insecure depending on the rider. They are also notorious for accidents. Also if you are using Bodas you have to carry your motorcycle helmet with you for the whole day, into restaurants, supermarkets, meetings etc. However, there is nothing quite like zipping through the town in the warm sunshine on the back of a Boda!

4) Special Hire. Basically what we would call a 'Taxi' with a price to match. Not unreasonable considering the cost of cars, parts and fuel here but outside the means of most volunteers. Anything from £7.50 to £10 depending on the distance travelled and your bargaining skills. Useful if you need to bring home big items (I got my fridge into a special hire!) or for several of you returning home late.

Finally I've copied Glen's description of a journey into the centre of Kampala in a taxi (Matatu)  as it is a brilliant, graphic description.

'You choose to take a taxi so walk along Tank Hill Road, there are stops but who knows where they are. Behind there you there is the Phut Phut of a knackered diesel engine and a persistent toot toot, A rusty white Toyota van with windows and a blue and white checked stripe comes up behind you zigzagging wildly from side to side on the road at about 15 mile per hour with the conductor hanging with an imploring arm out of the side window trying to catch the eye of every pedestrian, shop keeper or stray dog, (they don’t like travelling if they are not full). A slight raise of an arm and the thing veers in your direction right across the path of other traffic and the question is “Nakasero?” (The central Kampala square taken over as a bus park).  A slight nod, with the thought I should ask how much this is, and you are offered an open door to wall of bodies, thank heaven for going caving with Alan Crossley, you twist and gyrate your way through and over the people, bags, chickens and other food stuffs to find a perch on the once lushly upholstered red and gold patterned upholstery.  With a cough and a splutter and a disappointing, thurrrr, tut tut the vehicle staggers into movement as the bus conductor hops along beside trying to become paper thin so as to hold his place next to the window between wall to wall seats and the door so as to wave his arm imploringly at any other potential customer. The vehicle bumps, grinds and clangs its way in a cloud of black smoke, regardless of whichever side of the road it should be on, trying to steer a path between the pot holes and least raised pieces of speed bump. All while it is surrounded by a swarm of Bodas like flies, none seems to be able to actually overtake, undertake or keep apart yet none give up the struggle. Soon you catch up with another taxi as it pulls out from the side of the road and friendly rivalry develops because each wants to be in front to catch the next passenger.  This performance staggers to the end of Tank Hill road and launches from a junction where it has neither priority or care onto Kabalagala a street of shops and thatched stick built night clubs, (think Tortuga form Pirates of the Caribbean) before wedging itself sideways into the traffic jam which is Ggaba road.  From here on down it is push and shove with no intention to leave handlebar room for the Boda Bodas in between all the way to the Roundabout (and I use the term lightly) to cross the Entebbe Road. Here revving of engines and small jumps forward to assert the right to the next foot of road ahead with much gesticulating and paper thin gap judgement between drivers on all sides is the order of the day, until finally you emerge on the Nakasero side and race, halt, race, halt to the turning to the old taxi park. This is a turn right up what looks like a driveway, which you are trying to make from the left hand lane in order to steal a march on all those who got to the right and got stuck in the queue. Somewhere here without regard for anyone else the conductor opens the door and you pile out paying your 1,200 shillings (about 30p) and the taxi disappears into what appears to be a shop front but is actually the entrance to the Old Taxi Park. The theme parks of the UK have missed this ride.'

A Different World

A very interesting and different day today and not at all what I expected when I left home this morning! I was expecting a quiet day working on a report and spreadsheets in the office. However I was invited to go with the project officer to the Land Awareness Conference which is being held this week in Kampala and run by one of the partners I'll be working with.

The trip started with a boda ride across town. As we wove our way through the Kampala traffic in the warm sunshine I thought about how different life is here from life in the UK. For a start I can't get my head around it being less than a month to Christmas as it's still summer weather! Also in Uganda the Christmas decorations and presents are only just going up in shops and hotels unlike the UK where they will have been around for several weeks already.

And the modes of transport! I can't imagine riding across York on the back of a motorbike to a meeting! Perhaps that's something to think about Garry? When I arrived 2 months ago I didn't intend to use the bodas but it is just the easiest way to get around.

The conference was at the Sheraton Hotel in the centre of Kampala. Yes it is a member of the international chain and one of the big international hotels in Kampala. It was a different world from our usual places in Kampala. Looking around the lobby you could be anywhere in the world. And the lunch! As well as a good selection of Ugandan food there were lovely salads and steak pie, potatoes and vegetables. And puddings!! These are not often available in Kampala so to see a selection of Black Forest gateau, strawberry cream cake or Danish apple tart was a real treat!

The Sheraton had just put up their main Christmas display outside the front entrance. A soft top red VW beetle pulled by reindeer and full of flowers and Christmas presents. This must look spectacular at night when it's all lit up.

The conference sessions we sat in on were really interesting and gave me an insight into some of the issues the partner organisations are tackling. There isn't a national land registration system here yet. One of the outcomes of the project I'll be working on is around settling land disputes, particularly in the North which is just recovering from 20 years of conflict. Traditionally women don't have land ownership rights but with many households headed by a women this is one of the groups the partners are targeting for help in establishing land ownership rights. I've got so much to learn and understand about the issues here. I can help with finance capacity building but it's great to get a chance to start to learn about the work the partners are doing.

Life with an African Beat!

Life here definitely has an African drum beat! From the dancing, singing and music at the Ndere Cultural centre last Sunday to the band and singer at Jazzville on Wednesday evening to the drums and music we can often hear in the evenings from the flat and the singing at a BBQ we went to yesterday evening. Ugandans have a wonderful natural sense of rhythm we don't get close to in the UK. A colleague at work is trying to find a proper Ugandan drum, one made for musicians to use not just for the tourist market, to take back to Ireland with her. Hearing the sounds and wonderful rhythms will transport her straight back to East Africa. Although carrying it on your head is optional!

Life is starting to settle into a routine here in Kampala. The day starts with a climb up the track to find a boda boda to take me into work. Although it should be possible to arrange a regular driver to pick me up from the gates and save the walk up the hill! Then the arrival at work and the routine of greeting everyone and asking how they are, did they have a good weekend / evening etc. A proper hour lunch break either going to a local restaurant for rice and beans with colleagues or having a sandwich and reading the papers in the office. Then home via the fruit and vegetable market stalls to collect the lovely fresh seasonal fruit and vegetables for dinner. I don't have to walk very far carrying a motorcycle helmet before a boda boda stops to offer me a ride.

There is a lovely group of VSO volunteers and honorary volunteers here in Kampala and we usually meet up for dinner on Wednesday and Friday evenings at one of the local restaurants. One of the joys of living here is the range of restaurants available with meals for a very reasonable price. In fact eating out is nearly the same price as eating in. The weather is always warm so we can sit outside to eat all year around, although you need the insect repellent to keep the mosquitos at bay.

Welcome Home Glen!

Glen arrived into Entebbe airport at 22.40 Uganda time yesterday. He arrived on the same flight as the next group of VSO volunteers so we were both able to travel back into Kampala with them.

It's great being back together again and I'm looking forward to introducing him to Kampala and the other VSO volunteers. However, he's brought out 3 more suitcases of useful and not so useful stuff, so more things to find homes for!

I've taken 2 days holiday from work to show him around. We're going to the Ndere Cultural Centre with the new volunteers tonight. I really enjoyed the evening when I went in my first week so I hope Glen likes it.

It's a warm humid afternoon in Kampala. This is the view from the balcony, now that Glen has finally managed to get the door to open! There are so many odd jobs I need doing around the flat, it's a good job he's brought a mini tool kit.

A week in Lira

This week I travelled to Lira in the north of Uganda to meet one of the partners I will be working with. I travelled with two colleagues and we had some useful and interesting meetings with the partner organisation. I'm sure there is a lot I can do to help build their financial management systems and knowledge. I'm hoping to travel back before Christmas to start to look at setting up a cost centre for their central costs and then allocate these across the various grants that they have.

We left at 6am on Monday morning to try and avoid the worst of the Kampala traffic. There are some major roadworks on the main road to the north on the outskirts of Kampala with a long stretch where there is only a hardcore layer and no tarmac. Uganda also has a lot of speed bumps, particularly where any work is being done on the road. Overall it took us 5 hours to get to Lira with a short breakfast stop on the way. We then had Monday afternoon and all of Tuesday and Wednesday with the partner and then travelled back on Thursday. We weren't able to avoid the Kampala traffic on Thursday so it took 7 hours to get back. But we did stop at a market on the way back and got some excellent fresh fruit and vegetables. I got a large bag of tomatoes for 2000 UGX, which is around 50p.

In Kampala I'm gradually getting settled into the apartment and getting things put away. I need to go back to the furniture market to get some more storage, especially when Glen arrives next week as I've filled up all the spaces already! I've started to use the Boda motorbike taxis as they are the quickest and easiest way to get around. It's definitely the best way to get to work. A 40 minute walk with 2 uphill climbs or a 7 minute motorbike ride? Which would you choose?

A Day out to Entebbe

I've now moved into the flat and have been busy cleaning, tidying and finding homes for everything. Everyone else is doing much the same, starting our placements and getting settled into our accommodation so a group of the VSO volunteers decided that we needed a day out on Saturday. We decided to go and see Lake Victoria and headed to Entebbe.

We decided to travel by Matatu. These are the 14 seater minibuses that travel all over Kampala and to nearby places such as Entebbe. They are cheap and effective if you know the route you want to take. However there are no timetables, bus stops, numbers or route maps so you need some local knowledge to be able to use them. The trip to Entebbe took about an hour and cost us 3000 UGX each or around 75p!

Once there we looked for the botanical gardens. It was amazing to see mahogany, ebony, frankincense and nutmeg trees growing in the gardens. There are also the most beautiful large flowers on several of the trees.

However, I think the highlight of the trip was our meeting with the group of velvet monkeys living in the gardens. Especially as there were 2 new babies in the group which were only a day old.

After all that excitement it was time for lunch. This was a shared feast of fish and chips in a little cafe on the shores of Lake Victoria. As much as the 5 of us could eat for 60,000 UGX = £15!

Patience

That has been the word of the week - Patience!

Moving into the flat has been moving along, but oh so slowly. We were going to get the keys for both flats on Monday but the work was still being finished. Then on Wednesday, then on Thursday, then on Friday and then today, Saturday. The two of us who are moving into the two flats have been down there today and everything is nearly finished. We've also got details of the water and electricity meters for each flat so that we can read the meters when we are ready.

The flats are looking lovely, all freshly painted with curtains up and light bulbs in. We tested everything today and apart from a couple of small things to finish everything is working fine. The balconies were still in the shade today at 1pm so breakfast and lunch will be on the balcony and then an evening drink with a view of the sunset over Kampala.

The current plan is to get the furniture on Monday and move in early next week! We'll see!

I've also been struggling with the wifi connection at the guest house. I think there are more people trying to use it than there is availability. So it can be very slow or just suddenly disappear completely. It's taken me half an hour of trying to get the blank page to write this blog post - Patience!